Thursday, July 11, 2013

Springfield, IL

What more can you ask from a city: All Things Lincoln; museums of all types; a variety of both interesting and delicious food; Route 66 and a Frank Lloyd Wright house!  All spectacular.

Springfield is the city that Lincoln called home for many years.  We were able to visit his museum, library, home, memorial garden and grave site.

The museum was very well done.  There were two very interesting movies about Lincoln.  One, called the Eyes of Lincoln gave an interesting perspective on his eyes and his visage.  I had never noticed that his eyes did not seem to focus on the same point.  Some say that this is from a boyhood encounter with a horse.  And it is remarkable that his face changed so much in the 5 years he was President.  The other movie was a holographic presentation that described the process of receiving and archiving Lincoln memorabilia.  It was remarkable to me that some of the artifacts in the museum had been received only 2 or 3 years ago.

In both the museum and the library there was a great concentration on the Civil War.  As we were in Illinois most of the information was from the Union perspective, as it should be.  As recent transplants to Tennessee, it always seems to me that the war looks so different from the perspective of the south.  And while much is always made that the war was about slavery, it was really fought for the more underlying issue of state’s rights.  How much right does the federal government have to control what a state can do.  What amazed me in all of this discussion of state’s rights is that today, over 150 years later, we are still arguing the same issue, whether it is about health care, immigration, or marriage.  As a country, we are still trying to figure how state and federal rights are, or should be, aligned.  Most interesting to me!

The Lincoln house in Springfield is the only house that Lincoln ever owned.  He lived in it with Mary and the 4 boys, Robert, William, Edward and Thomas.  (None ever returned to the house after the assassination.  Of the children, only Robert lived into adulthood.)  The house seemed like a lovely home, more modest than one could have expected.  But, certainly luxurious to the man that was lived his childhood in a one room log cabin.  It is now owned and maintained by the National Park Service.

The grave site was most interesting.  At 7:00 PM they have a flag lower ceremony, performed by re-enactors from an Illinois Civil War company.  Bugles, drum, guns and mortar.  It was very interesting.  Before the ceremony, there were several docents that re-created the Lincoln funeral.  Made you feel like it was a friend that was explaining what he had seen during the funeral in Springfield.  After the ceremony, we were able to walk through the tomb.  Abraham, Mary and 3 sons – Willie, Eddie and Tad are buried there.  Robert is buried at Arlington national Cemetery. 

We had planned to walk at least some of the 6 miles of trails in the Garden that now grows plants that were indigenous to the areas that Lincoln lived – Kentucky, Indiana and Illinois.  But, the rain had other ideas.  We did drive to it and walk a short distance of the path. It seems to be an well maintained area with lots of green space.

Then there was Route 66.  We have visited/driven parts of Route 66 in Twin Arrows and Two Gun and Winslow AZ, Albuquerque, NM. I had not realized that Route 66 went through Springfield.  Many motels, diners and gas stations still remain.  Some open for business and some in not-so-good shape.  But, it is always interesting to see the signs, the business and all the memorabilia.

The food was most interesting.  We needed to fit it in to all the other tourist things we were doing.  We started with lunch at the Feed Store.  It is right in the midst of historic downtown Springfield.  Sounds like it might be a bit of a stretch to eat here.  They had the best soup and sandwiches.  They are only opened for lunch in a restored historic building.  Great atmosphere, wonderful service and sandwiches to die for!  Then there was the required stop at the Cozy Diner, the Route 66 home of the original ‘Hot dog on a stick”, or corn dog.  Interesting diner that looked like it had not changed since the heyday of Route 66.  But good hot dogs.  Jungle Jim’s CafĂ© was our lunch stop on another day.  Great service, well-maintained/restored diner of the Route 66 era and the food was great, too.  All in all we had wonderful experiences eating.  Now we must stop eating for at least 2 weeks. Unfortunately (!!) that will not happen!

And the last prize in Springfield was the Dana Thomas house.  It is a home, one of Frank Lloyd Wrights first, that was “remodeled” in 1904.  The quotes are required because there is little more than a single room remaining from the original home.  But, it was not actually new construction.  It was a lovely home, with all the typical Wright architectural elements or light, merging of indoor and outdoor space, many levels (16 in all), open space and built-in clutter-free furnishings.  The major artistic designs were the sumac and the butterfly.  And this home has more glass still displayed than most other Wright prairie homes. It was quite an impressive home, with many of its original furnishings.  It has been restored (by the state of Illinois) to its 1910 appearance.  Well worth the visit.

Springfield, IL was a most interesting, enjoyable stop.  And, BTW, the campground we stayed at is on Route 66!  Another added bonus!